Day 198 May 26th 2007, Planet of the Apes - Yudanaka to Tokyo



What no Monkeys? On arriving at Monkey World we were told to wait at the ticket office by a worried looking park warden as there were no Monkeys. A few minutes later another warden appeared whistling loudly. After throwing handfuls of soya beans onto the path in front of him a scene not out of place in a Planet of the Apes film unfolded before us. Monkeys descended down the hills from every direction towards the warden, jumping and running past us as they went. (Photos Above: Our accommodation as seen from Monkey World. Below: Shelley on right and one of the Monkeys)


It was quite remarkable to watch them so closely, in true monkey style they were running, swinging and jumping from anything in site. The boss surprisingly appeared to be one of the smaller monkeys, either that or he was just the loudest. Spending a couple of hours in the park you could start to see each of their little personalities and place within this community of about 200 monkeys.


Above: Two of the Monkeys in their private Onsen (natural hot spring) Below: Drying out in the Sun afterwards. Bottom: A mother and baby Monkey.



Although not a completely natural environment the Monkeys were free to come and go as they pleased and the Wardens only seemed to be feeding them soya beans and some fruit, as a tourist you weren't allowed to touch or feed the Monkeys. As its Japan there had to be an element of technology at Monkey World, the Monkey Cam.

After our Wildlife experience it was time to get back to Tokyo where our trip here began almost a month ago.

Highlights: Ooohh ooohh aaah aaah

Day 197 May 25th 2007, Sake and Grasshoppers - Takayama to Yudanaka


Towards the end of our 2 hour train and 1 hour bus journey I was commenting on how difficult it is Japan to really get away from it all. For the entire journey there was not a gap in sight in the endless housing interleaved with paddy fields. I shouldn't have spoken so soon.

On arriving in Yudanaka tourist information told us to catch another bus for 20 mins then walk for 40 mins to get to our hotel. After a bit of further research we found we could get a taxi and only have to walk for 10 minutes. it must be the back packs as its always the cheapest option offered first by tourist information rather than the easiest.

After a bit of further confusion we managed to get a taxi, a bit difficult to describe where we were going, its next to monkey world, I stopped short of doing a monkey impression. Yes we have come all this way to see some monkeys, but not just any ordinary monkeys, these are monkeys with their own hot tub. As we took some time to relax in the hotels outdoor Onsen, next to a fast flowing river and geyser, we saw a few a few monkeys but none decided to take a dip in the hot tub much to Shelley's relief.


Dinner was another cook your own affair, today with wild duck. For starters a dried fish and crickets coasted in soy sauce. The grasshoppers were ok and I ate pretty much the whole fish. I stopped short of eating the whole thing, head and tail like the Japanese lady sitting next to me.


Towards the end of dinner I went to fetch a second bottle of sake, on returning to the dining room I got a loud round of applause from our fellow Japanese dinners. Who up until now had been very quiet. I'm not quite sure the significance of the second bottle but it was damn good stuff.

Dinner was great and after all the sake I realised why the Japanese eat at very low tables and sleep on futons very low to the ground.

Highlights: Great food and an interesting venue.

Day 196 May 24th 2007, Monkeys and Ladders - Takayama

Two hours by bus from Takayama is Kamikochi a preserved park land in the Japanese Alps. This is one of the only places I have seen in Japan where you can look into the mountains and not see buildings everywhere. We decided to follow a 6 hour trek to Mt Yakedake

A few minutes into our walk and we came across a group of Japanese Snow Monkeys, a great start to the hike. 2 hours later and we were pretty much back where we started after missing one of the signs for the trail in Japanese, back on the right path we set off again for Mt Yakedake. The initial terrain of boulders and rivers we had to cross was nothing compared to what lay in store. After crossing melting snow we came across a set of ladders, strategically placed throughout the upper part of the mountain, the makeshift bridge was something else but it held out ok.


We didn't make it all the way to the summit due to our earlier detour. Dodging a snake on our way back to the bus we managed to cause quite a sir by delaying the 3:00 bus departure, got on the bus without any change had to run off and go to the ticket office, at 3:01 what I believe to be the station manager came running out to see why the bus hadn't left yet, oops.

Highlights: Fantastic trekking in the Japanese Alps

Day 195 May 23rd 2007, Cook it yourself - Takayama

Having been on the road or the rails for the last six days we decided to settle in Takayama for a few nights. We still have to pack our bags each morning as our Inn could only book us into a different type of room for each of our 3 nights. Today we are in the Japanese style family room that takes up almost a whole floor of the Inn. The Plasma screen though is great for watching the Sumo wrestling.

Our stay afforded us the chance to finally get the smell of sulphur from our clothes and enjoy a lay in for once. Amongst its modern building Takayama has managed to retain some of its traditional architecture and you can easily spend a few hours browsing the old craft shops, Inns and Sake Breweries.


Takayama-jina is the only example left in Japan of the administrative offices, that were built in each region during the 1800s. A tour of its offices, store house and torture room make an interesting detour from the craft shops. Above and below: Views of Takayama-jina


For this evenings dinner we decided to try our hand at cooking our own. Taking the guide books recommendation we found ourselves for the first time in Japan face to face with a restaurant brimming with Europeans. Clearly guide books have a lot to answer for, in this case to the benefit of the restaurant owner.


After some brief instructions we set about cooking our own Hida beef, a local speciality, shabu shabu style.

Highlights: An easy day strolling round Takayama

Day 194 May 22nd 2007, Into the Mountains - Okayama to Takayama via Himeji


After spending much of our first weeks in Japan admiring Temples and Shrines of the Kansai region, we discovered another one of its architectural treasures today. Himeji Castle built in 1580 is considered to be the finest example of castle building in Japan, although it doesn't have anything on our English castles ;-)


Above: The castle and a strange man with a bird that would sit on your shoulder for a picture, the bird not the man that is. After touring the castle we continued our journey on to the Japanese Alps and the town of Takayama, a quiet mountain town with a population of only 1/2 million, small for a Japanese town. Our hotel here is one of the best we have stayed in here in Japan, for reference its called the Rickshaw Inn.

Highlights: Grand Japanese Castle

Day 193 May 21st 2007, Green Fingers - Tsuwano to Okayama


With just over week left in Japan we were back on the road again to try and squeeze in as many of the highlights we missed on our way south. Japan is famous for its gardens and in Okayama is the Korakuen Garden, considered to be one of the top 3 in Japan.


One word required to describe Korakuen - Stunning. The mix of water, classic Japanese architecture, stone work and age old cyprus trees capture your imagination and create a beautiful image of classic Japan.


The gardens name means "taking pleasure later". The name comes from a Chinese proverb that says "the lord must bear sorrow before the people and take pleasure after them". Perhaps this is what Ikeda Tsunamasa, Lord of Okayama, who built the garden did.


The garden completed in 1700 took 23 years to build and centuries of gardening to perfection show in every detail of the garden, not a leaf looks out of place.


Also of Interest in Okayama is the "Peach boy" or Momotarou. Apparently one of the more popular fairy tales in Japan. There a statues including the one below of the little chap and I have included a summary of the tale below. Its a bit like an episode of the A Team but with a monkey, a pheasant and a dog.


"Once upon a time there lived an old man an old woman in the country of Okayama. The old man went everyday into the mountains to cut wood, while his wife would go to the river to wash clothes. One day, while the old woman was down at the river washing clothes, a big peach came floating down the river! It looked so delicious, she decided to take it home for her and her husband to eat.

When the old man came back to their home, the old woman cut the peach open, and to their surprise, there was a small boy inside! They decided to call him Momotaro, which means 'peach boy'.　The old couple raised Momotaro to be big and strong. One day, he decided to go and defeat the ogres living on Ogre Island that were pillaging the land.

The old woman fixed him some delicious millet dumplings, known as kibi-dango, for his long journey to the island. On the way, a monkey, a dog, and a pheasant joined him, giving them a dumpling each in return for their help in fighting the ogres. Upon reaching the Ogre Island, Momotaro and his companions found that the gate was locked to the Ogre's fort.

The pheasant flew inside, and grabbed a key to let the others in. Once inside, they fought the evil ogres. The pheasant pecked their eyes, the dog bit their legs and the monkey jumped on their backs, clawing at the beasts. Finally, the ogres cried for mercy! They gave the strong Momotaro all of their treasure, and he returned to his village triumphantly. Momotaro and the old couple lived happily ever after."

Highlights: Stunning Japanese gardening

Day 192 May 20th 2007, Here fishy fishy - Beppu to Tsuwano



Stinking of sulphur we set of early for an epic journey to the mountain town of Tsuwano. I say epic but in reality pretty straight forward, now we have mastered the Japanese rail system. The journey was well worth it and we found ourselves for the first time since Koyasan in a quiet little town.

The highlight and the reason for the journey here are the inhabitants of Tsuwano, some 65,000 of them. I'm talking about the carp that live in the towns drainage ditches, they out number the local human population 10:1.


One of the ditches is shown above, the water is crystal clear, supplied straight from the surrounding mountains. The quality of the Koi carp here is incredible. Having worked in the ornamental fish industry (fish shop) for a time I can tell you there are fish here that would sell for 1000s in the UK. You would struggle to even find them for sale and here in Tsuwano they swim past you down the high street, amazing.


The carp were originally bred in the time of the Samurai as a food source. An anticipated attack or siege of the town never happened and the fish have thrived.

Tsuwano is also home to some nice castle ruins reached by chair lift. On approaching the summit we could hear MC Hammer blaring out from an the stereo of an old Japanese man, who was helping people off the lifts. Only in Japan.

Highlights: Stunning wild Koi

Day 191 May 19th 2007, Mud Baths - Aso to Beppu

Yesterdays steep ascent and decent of Aso-San certainly gave our legs something to think about. Still wearing my hiking boots I set off from the UK with 7 months ago (they were well used then) my feet could also do with some TLC. What better a place to visit then than Beppu, renown for his hot springs. So much so that the numerous steam vents covering the city make it look like a polluted industrial town, it is only steam though.


When hot springs are mentioned are always assume to find them in a little village tucked away in the mountains. Beppu is a sprawling town but nicely set between the mountains and the sea. The towns hot springs pump out more than 100 million litres of hot water a day, you would expect then to find your hotel shower hot, not the case.


There are two types of hot spring Jigoku (hells) and Onsen which are for bathing in. The hells so named because of the heaat have been transformed into mini theme parks, very tacky but if you haven't seem bubbling mud before worth a look.

After checking out a couple of the themed Jigoku we headed off to one of Beppus larger Onsens, Holyland. The guide book advises you to read carefully the English instructions here, none left said the lady at reception. Having made many a mistake at our earlier Onsens visits, this one should be a breeze apart from the mixed bathing. I would like to point out at this point that it was Shelley's idea to come here.

Working my way through the men only baths, I made my way to the mixed sulphur baths where I had arranged to rendezvous with Shelley. The flannel you are supposed to use to cover yourself whilst walking about only went half way round my waist. I managed to make it to the safety of the mud and then watched Shelley emerge from the ladies baths only to walk straight into the men only section. Think of a scene from a carry on film set in Japan and you have the picture.

Warm through and through we headed back to our hotel which was infested with cockroaches. The downside to all this natural water is that our hotel seemed to use it for everything including the laundry. Fairy didn't have a "fresh smell of sulphur" conditioner last time I looked, if you fancy it though one wash in Beppu will have the same effect.

Highlights: Hot water except in the shower??

Day 190 May 18th 2007, Yellow brick road - Kumamoto to Aso


Rules are rules in Japan and even if your rooms ready your not checking in until 3PM. The same dedication to the straight and narrow observed by the hotels doesn't extend to their map making, several hotels we have stayed at show themselves as being next to the local train station, the reality a 15 min walk.

So after arriving hot and sweaty after our hike from the train station we had to make do with a quick change of shoes in reception before heading off to climb Aso-San. Catching a cab to the start of the walk was pretty easy, getting to the top of this active volcano proved otherwise. The chairlift which removes the need to walk the first steep 4km of uphill was out of order, something about an earthquake.

As we approached the summit we came across what looked like the yellow brick road lined with eruption shelters, not sure if they would save you from a full scale eruption but they make a great place to have lunch sheltering from the wind.

On getting to the summit we thought better of walking round the crater as gusts of wind nearly knocked us off our feet, for once common sense prevailed and we walked back to the local train station.

Highlights: Japans largest active volcano

Day 189 May 17th 2007, Ancient Swimming Techniques - Fukouka to Kumamoto


Ko-bori is a technique of swimming upright in a suit of armor whilst firing arrows at your attackers. A technique that was mastered here in Kumamoto at its castle, given the size of its moat I can see why this would have been a useful skill to master.


The castle was built between 1601 and 1607 and was burnt to the ground during whats known as the Satsuma Rebellion in 1877. After a 53 day siege the castle finally fell and the rebel Samurais defending the castle were defeated. It was during this siege that eating raw horse meat became popular, basashi as its know is still popular today but luckily we managed to avoid this local speciality, well I think we did as I'm never sure exactly what I'm ordering in restaurants.


Highlights: A modern rebuild of a magnificent Japanese castle

Day 188 May 16th 2007, Raining Cats and Dogs - Hiroshima to Fukuoka



Heading further south we arrived in Fukuoka, we had intended to visit a small fishing island but with the rain pouring down we got stuck in canal city. Not a mini version of Venice but a shopping center with a canal running through the middle of it. I took refuge in an Internet cafe whilst Shelley went for a Shiatsu massage.


As the evening drew in with nothing else for it and the rain still coming down we found a "Cheers" bar in the neon style. As you can see from the photo it was busy.

Highlights: Free drinks in Internet cafe

Day 187 May 15th 2007, Paper Cranes - Hiroshima


I must have seen many documentaries on Hiroshima but none of them came close to conveying what happened here on Auguat 6th 1945 compared with the sight of the A-Bomb dome (above) I have seen plenty of old burnt out buildings before but it was above this building that the Worlds first nuclear weapon used against man detonated, instantly killing 80,000 people, another 60,000 died shortly afterwards from their injuries.　As you stand and look at the building from across the river its hard to accept that this really happened here.

Hiroshima has been rebuilt into a thriving city and the Peace Memorial Park is surrounded by shinny new offices and accommodation. One of the most moving sites is the Children's Memorial, this is surrounded by thousands of paper cranes dedicated to Sadako Sasaki Sadako was only 2 when the bomb went off, her home about 1mile from the center of the blast. Almost 10 years after the blast she was diagnosed with Leukemia. Whilst in hospital she saw a delivery of 1,000 paper cranes (origami) as a get well present. Inspired she herself began folding them believing that if she could fold a 1,000 she would be cured. Sadako competed 644 before she died, her friends completed the rest and they were buried with her.

The school children lay reefs or paper cranes at the memorial and say prayers for peace. With all the hundreds of school kids around we stood out as a great opportunity for them to practice their English, after asking a set of questions they would ask to take a picture with us and then show us how to fold the paper cranes.

In the picture above you can see the A Bomb dome and the arc in the middle is above a flame that will burn until there are no nuclear weapons left on Earth. The museum at the park is one of the best I have ever visited and tells the story of Hiroshima before and after the bombing.

South of Hiroshima is the island of Itsukushima where the deer are protected as divine messengers from the Itsukushima Shrine The Torii (gate) to which is pictured below. At high tide the gate looks like it is floating. At one time the Island was so sacred that commoners were not allowed to set foot on it, instead they could approach the shrine by boat through this gate.

The gate is a huge tourist attraction and is classified as one of the Three Views of Japan

Highly recommended is the local speciality of Okonomiyaki Pancake Noodles with optional bacon or seafood, incredible and cooked right in front of you, served up with a cold beer. Okonomi means what you like and yaki means grilled or cooked. If you come to Hiroshima you have to try this.

Summary: Anyone visiting Japan should take the time to visit Hiroshima and the opportunity to learn more about what happened here