Day 45 December 24th 2006, Laguna de Los Tres - El Chalten

We trekked for about 11 miles today to the base of Fitz Roy, named after the first guy to climb it. originally the mountain was called El Chalten, Tehulche for "smoking mountain". The weather in El Chalten had apparently being very poor for the last couple of weeks with the mountain range shrouded in cloud. Luckily as we edged nearer to the snow fringed Laguna de Los Tres the cloud lifted as though the mountain was indeed smoking and the full range was in view.

To complete a great days walking a condor, which we had waited for hours to see in Peru cruised overhead at less than 100 ft.

In Argentina the main Christmas celebration is on the 24th Christmas Eve so of course we joined in the festivities with a six course dinner at Ruca Mahuida. The restaurant was small with a single seating of about 20 people. No turkey this year but veal instead along with pasta and of course champagne ;-)

Pictures: Top right Shelley feasting on chocolate from the chocolateria. Top center a view of the Fitz Roy range. Bottom center: Myself and Shelley in front of the complete Fitz Roy range.

Highlights: A great view of Fitz Roy and seeing a condor at close range

Day 44 December 23rd 2006, El Calafete to El Chalten, 220km

The bus to El Chalten took about 4 hours along a very rough road. On arriving we had to backpack across town to our hotel, luckily El Chalten is only about 800m wide. El Chalten would be best described as a young small but expanding town. Initially here for the climbers of Fitz Roy, of which there are not normally more than 20 a year, the town now attracts hikers in vast numbers. Many of the people in the town moved here recently with our hotel being only a year old.

Our travel guide published in 2005 points out that there is no internet access in the town, a year later there are now 3 internet cafe's. Despite being summer the weather is still harsh with gale force winds whipping the town at night. For the first time in South America the remoteness of El Chalten feels like we are truly off the tourist trail, no bus tours here.

Highlights: Being right off the tourist trail

Day 43 December 22nd 2006, Big Ice - Perito Moreno

Managing only 5 hours sleep the last 2 nights due to early starts we were feeling a little on the tired and grumpy side this morning as we made our way by bus 60km from El Calafate to Perito Moreno, trying to keep our eyes open whilst listening to yet another explanation on the wildlife of Patagonia.

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On arrival at the Perito Morneo Glacier the view and shortly afterwards the cold weather woke us up pretty quickly. Whilst travelling and I guess in life in general, you see and experience things which can be compared to other sights and experiences, the Perito Moreno Glacier was like nothing I had ever seen before, not even close. The sight made even more spectacular by the thunderous booms of the ice cracking as the glacier slowly moved forwards.

Crossing the front of the glacier by boat we started our trek on the glacier, after about an hour walking alongside the ice we equipped ourselves with crampons and ventured onto the ice. Walking like a duck took some getting used to, but before long we were jumping (cautiously stepping) over large crevices in the ice. At one point absailing down into a crevice and then having to climb back out the other side in order to continue the trek.

Stopping for lunch we sheltered from the wind in a small crevice, moments later the ice cracked only a few meters away, our guides seeming only a little concerned, informing us that the ice only cracks open on films, lucky then that no one was using a video camera.

The glacier is covered in small lakes and streams with whats know as eternal drains firming 200m waterfalls to the base of the glacier. With a guide holding us on each side we were able to take a quick look into one of these.

As we made our way back to the boat the weather changed to rain, back on the boat we were soon warmed up by a glass of scotch served on the rocks with 300 year old ice from the glacier.

Highlights: Treking on Perito Moreno Glacier

Day 42 December 21st 2006, Going further South -Trelew to El Calafete, 986km

El Calafete is approx 1 1/2 hours by plane from Trelew which is the nearest airport to Puerto Madryn. The additional 1,000km south making a difference to the temperature which is about 14 C without the wind chill factor. On arrival the wind was blowing some just like it was when we arrived in Puerto Madryn. It looks like the warm sunny days are behind us for a few weeks now until we head back North through Chile.

The Andes which we had spent some time with in Peru are back on the horizon covered in snow behind Lago Argentina, the 3rd largest lake in South America and the largest in Argentina. The lake is is milky blue color from the minerals brought in by the surrounding glaciers. As the temperature drops so does the population, only 6,000 people live in El Calafete, but the president of Argentina does have a summer house here.

The town has an alpine ski resort feel to it with prices to match, it also gets darker here later around 10pm. There is a beautiful lagoon next to the hotel and upon visiting we saw a small flock of flamingos. This was whilst dodging a territorial falcon who hovered above us squawking.

Being full from lunch we ventured into the supermarket for the first time on this trip, dinner being a homemade ham and cheese sandwich.

Highlights: Travelling further south

Day 41 December 20th 2006, P P Pick up a Penguin - Punta Tombo, Gaimen, Trelew

Gaimen touted as a Welsh village in Argentina is about as Welsh as Slough and really not worth a visit, yes it does have some historical significance but if you have spent any time in the Wales this place will be a disappointment.

Trelew is also noticeably not worth visiting. Patagonia is famous for the number of dinosaur fossils found here and in Trelew some of these finds are hosted in a dinosaur museum. Now either I really have become thick over the last couple of months (if not before) and the museum was as it should be, or everything thing in there was totally back to front.

The exhibition started with Man and worked its way back to the big bang, visiting each time period section it was difficult to build on the last. Surely they should have started with the big bang and gone forward in time allowing the visitor to build up a picture of the Earth´s history.

Punto Tombo on the other hand is worth the 4 hour round trip. With a Magellanic Penguin population during breeding season of almost 1 million birds it was a spectacular site to behold. It was strange though as you normally envisage penguins with ice and snow not gravel and trees, under which they made their burrows.

Are you sure this is the Antarctic? I don´t remember there being any trees and where's all the Ice

When I told friends and colleagues that I was taking off for a year with Shelley to go travelling one of the most common comments was "you will certainly learn a lot". This is very true but on our travels I occasionally come across something that I really don´t understand.

For example my understanding of cameras is that you buy big lenses to take pictures of things far away, not to walk to within a foot of a Penguin with a foot long lens to take a picture of it, am I missing something here? Admittedly it did seem to be only American and German tourists doing this so perhaps a cultural thing. The Penguins didn´t seem too put out by this.

Don't just stand there go and get me some more fish

Listening to the guide book today we found a great steak restaurant which looked like a canteen at a trailer park and served chili sauce in old plastic coca cola bottles, the steak was great.

Highlights: Fluffy Penguin chicks

Day 40 December 19th 2006, Hangovers and Admin - Puerto Madryn

After sleeping off our hangovers from the large Argentine measure G&T´s the previous night, we were left with the afternoon to catch up with our admin, very boring. We did however invest in some new running shoes to help with the fitness drive

What fitness drive I hear you ask - Well after loosing nearly all my body weight down the toilet in Peru it seemed a shame to put back on all what I would describe as corporate flab. The extra insulation gained through years of hard work, long boring business lunches and drinking sessions. Given that the average meal in Argentina consists of nearly 1/2kg of Beef some additional exercise is required.

A 20 min run on the beach humming the Baywatch theme tune got the drive off to a flying start, no Pamela Anderson's on the beach unfortunately, just some stray dogs.

Today we also learnt a useful travelling tip, if the guide book says that a restaurant is good for lunch go there for lunch and not anything else

Highlights: Nice new shinny running shoes

Day 39 December 18th 2006, The real Whales - Peninsula Valdes

The real tourist attraction at Puerto Madryn is Peninsula Valdes not the runaway Welsh, although we will be visiting a Welsh village later in the week to compare their Welsh cake to that of my Auntie Pat´s.

The peninsula is home to a vast array of wildlife with the main attraction being the Southern Right Whales that visit the bays during October to December to breed. Being a little late in the season we didn´t expect to see any on our boat. After nearly 2 hours of waves and seagulls we had almost given up hope when the boat veered quickly to port (left) accelerating towards the coast. There in the shallows of the bay were 2 Southern Right Whales. 100m or so out the Captain cut the engine and the Whales slowly edged their way towards the boat until they glided magnificently by about 10m from the boat. To add to the occasion two more Whales soon appeared and curiously checked out all the boats who had followed us in.

In all the excitement I even manged to get some decent camera footage, not quite worthy of the next David Attenborough series though.

After half a bbq lamb we visited an Elephant Seal colony, so called due to appearance of the males with their short trunks and the fact they can weigh up to 4,000kg. An interesting fact the Elephant Seal can dive up to 2,000m and stay there for 2 hours looking for its favourite food Giant Squid.

Peninsula Valdes

Not having seen enough wildlife we were treated to a visit to a small Magellanic Penguin colony, the comical little chaps only too happy to pose for photos just a few feet away.

2006 has been a particularly good year for seeing the old Whales after seeing Sperm Whales off of the Azores earlier in the year.

Highlights: Southern Right Whales

Day 38 December 17th 2006, Sun at the seaside - Puerto Madryn

With the Sun shining we set off on a long beach walk coming across the caves where the first Welsh settlers stayed for 3 weeks upon landing in Argentina. If Cardiff was anything like it is now in 1865 it must have seemed like paradise. Being on the coast steak gives way to seafood with the other local speciality being bbq lamb, there are very few cows in Patagonia as the terrain does not lend itself to supporting their favourite food grass. Taking their place are countless sheep, the Welsh must have felt very at home

Highlights: Taking it easy by the sea

Day 37 December 16th 2006, Gateway to Patagonia - Puerto Madryn

I must have managed almost 10 hours of sleep on the bus, unlike a plane you don't get the dehydration factor or any of the annoying stewardesses waking you up every 10 minutes. Despite expectations the 18 hour bus journey was quite easy and about 25% of the price compared to flying.

Puerto Madryn greeted us in the form of a very Welsh looking taxi driver, I was almost sure that he was going to call me "boyo". At the invitation of the Argentine government 153 Welsh immigrants arrived in Perto Madryn in 1863, apparently to escape the English erosion of Celtic life. Setting up a colony 80km inland many left after a great flood in 1899 but another contingent arrived in 1911, the colony now in its 5th generation still speaks but this is a tradition that isnt set to continue.

Puerto Madryn is a quiet seaside town and on our arrival was being battered by what seemed like a mini hurricane, taking refuge in an Internet cafe for the afternoon we surfaced to find a beautiful calm sunny evening and a walk on the beach was in order.

The view of Puerto Madryn from our hotel room

Dinner was interrupted by a fireworks display on the beach which was followed by some sort of mini rave, lead by what looked and sounded like some sort of cult leader. I was tempted to break out some of my classic dance moves from the 90´s but it had been a long day.

Highlights: Impromptu beach party

Day 36 15th December 2006, The wheels on the Bus - Buenos Aires to Puerto Madryn, 1,436km

The La China Estancia was 2 hours by taxi back to Buenos Aries where we would board our 18 bus ride for Puerto Madryn. The thought of an 18 hour 1,500km bus ride was not inspiring us with a great deal of excitement causing us to put off our arrival at the bus depot to the last minute. When your in a rush you really notice how heavy your backpacks are and for some reason think that buying the extra large toothpaste to save money made it so heavy.

A bus journey must be about the most boring thing to write about, however I shall do my best

15:00 Bus leaves Buenos Aires on time
20:00 Bus stops for supplies which looked like Indian takeaways
20:50 Bus Bingo

Bored s******s I was only too keen to play bingo, forgetting two things the first was that I am not an 80 year old lady and secondly that I can only count up to ten in Spanish, needless to say I didn´t win the bingo but it did pass a few minutes before dinner was served

21:00 Dinner Served straight from the 80´s in the form of a TV dinner

22:00 Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

The only other possible note of interest about the bus is found by reviewing its technical specs. The bus comes complete with not just a chemical toilet but a whole chemical bathroom, I was too scared to use it.

• Chassis: Volvo Mod- B12B
• Motor: Volvo Mod- D1ZA
• Brakes: S-CAM con ABS
• Suspension: Electronic (ECS)
• Capacity: 53 passengers
• 4 Flat tv
• DVD
• Stereo Sound
• Frigobar
• Chemical Bathroom

Highlights: Certainly not all the crap romantic comedy's shown on the bus

Day 35 December 14th 2006, Hollywood film sets - La China

Our visit to the Estancia was certainly full of surprises, today´s visiting one of the sets for the latest Anthony Hopkins film which was due to start filming in the next couple of days. After a quiet day at the farm and another great bbq we took a short trip to a nearby Estanica. In the grounds of which are large 1940´s house set in a UNESCO protected wildlife reserve originally owned by a guy called Robert Pearson.

The wildlife reserve borders what looks like the sea but is actually a river separating Argentina and Uruguay. Sitting on the river bank which looked a little out of place next to what looked like a sea, we sipped Mate and ate cake as the Sun set.

Highlights: Steak again for lunch and a glimpse of Hollywood

Day 34 December 13th 2006, Gooooooooooaaaalllllllllllll - La China

The TV goes blank, the lights don´t work, just a small power cut. As they say though it´s all about timing and this one occurred 3 minutes before full time in the final football match of the season. With 44 points each La Boca and Estudiantes were tied for the league championship, this match being the decider.

Cecila and her family avid supporters of Estudiantes who hadn´t won the championship for 23 years, La Boca Maradona´s old club, my allegiance to Estudiantes was set in stone. After going 1-0 down Estudiantes came back to 2-1 up, into injury time when the power went out. We soon found ourselves sprinting across the farm, Haka in tow racing for the car.

The joy on Celia´s and Julia´s face said it all as the radio announced full time, Haka was still bemused as to why we were all sitting in a car shouting and not going anywhere.

The family dog Haka

All of this excitement after an amazing day at the ranch, starting with a late breakfast followed by horse riding on one of the farms seven horses. Being the experienced equestrian that I am I was just about able to control my horse when it decided that enough was enough and it was time to go home, not helped by the fact that Shelley was almost in a full gallop on hers.

One of the stunning views at the farm

Steak and lots of it made up an excellent bbq lunch with probably the best steak I have ever had, cooked on a eucalyptus wood fire. It took a few hours to sleep off the feast in the Orange orchard, occasionally awoken by the family of Chimango´s (falcon like bird) living at the farm.

Now that´s what I call a bbq

After a short walk around the farm with Haka we finished the day with a horse and cart ride, luckily with Coqui the resident Gaucho at the reins. Dinner was again amazing served under candlelight in the old barn.

Your carriage awaits madam

Highlights: Seeing the underdogs win the league

Day 33 December 12th 2006, Big Elbow - Iguassu to Buenos Aires

As beautiful as the Jungle is its filled with more bloodsuckers than Dracula´s castle, on arriving back in Buenos Aires my right elbow had swelled to the size of a tennis ball. Thinking it was a just a sprain I largely ignored the problem.

As everything in South America runs smoothly our Taxi was there to meet us, right. Whilst Shelley tried to arrange for another taxi to take us to the Estancia we were staying at I decided it was worth a quick trip to First Aid at the Airport.

After a surprised reaction from the nurse, I managed to ascertain that she wanted to know where I had flown in from, on hearing Iguassu she was on the phone to the airline doctor. The diagnosis was a bite gone sour from one of the little bloodsuckers in the jungle. Now here I learnt something, when having an injection in the backside it is not necessary to strip half naked, much to the amusement of the nurse administering the steroid injection.

Accompanied by the Doctor, a friendly chap who informed me that Maradona was considered these days all of the following drunkard, loud mouth and a bad example to children, I picked up another set of Antibiotics.

Medical visit over we travelled south with our neanderthal of a taxi driver to an Estancia 60km South of La Plata in the Pampas region. The city faded away and the landscape gave way to one similar to that in Norfolk. Flat fields in every direction with the occasional grazing livestock (beef).

After the Sheraton the Estancia, called El China, was a complete contrast almost as though we were visiting a friends house for a few days. Greeted by Cecilia, her daughter Julia and Haka the dog we felt instantly at home and very relaxed. It wasn't long before we were settling down for some great home cooked food before recounting some of our travelling stories

Highlights: Some great home cooked Argentine food

Day 32 December 11th 2006, Big Water - Iguassu falls

Feeling marvelous from our stay so far we headed off once again to see a different part of the falls, opting to visit San Martin Island rather than travel by 3 hours to see the falls from Brazil. We were once again greeted by magnificent almost surreal views of the falls and we even had the chance to take a dip in the river at the bottom of one of the falls next to San Martin Island.

Given the beauty of San Martin Island we did contemplate taking the island for England, replacing the Argentine flag with the Union Jack but after thinking through the consequences and the fact that it was unlikely a contingent of Marines would turn up to help us hold the Island we let the idea go, we probably could have got any number of football fans to help out though.

After a very lazy afternoon by the pool we ventured into the park at sunset, my Spanish still rubbish I was unable to read the sign which said closed. Being a lot cooler in the evening the animals come out to play and we were able to get within 10m of a family of Toucans, who seemed to be nesting in a tree next to the old hotel next to the Sheraton.

To finish off our stay at Iguassu we polished off a large G&T overlooking the falls and the jungle, this one served by someone who unlike the rest of Argentina was not lost on the principal that you make your money on the drinks, serving a double rather than the standard 4 measures.

Shelley taking a dip by the falls

Highlights: San Martin Island and the Toucans

Day 31 December 10th 2006, Big Water - Iguassu Falls

Iguassu translated from Guarana means big water, consisting of 275 individual falls Iguassu is 4 times wider than Niagara. The falls have featured numerous times in films including Moonraker, The Mission and the recent remake of Miami vice.

Booking ourselves onto a tour we set off for the falls by foot, train, 4x4 and boat. The boat trip involved a wash under one of the falls. Probably the most spectacular part of the falls is Garganta de Diablo, which after visiting made our way back by dingy through the Iguassu river, keeping a safe distance of 200m from the falls. Being the only passengers our guide let us take a much needed cool dip in the river.

Shelley taking a dip in the Iguassu river

Being covered in sweat most of the time you are constantly surrounded by butterflies, occasionally landing on you to lick up the salt from the sweat. Being the Jungle the Butterflies and Toucans are but a few of the inhabitants. We saw several Tengo Lizards and Coatis. After insisting all morning that the little raccoon creatures were Coatis, Shelley was still disputing the fact until one appeared under a "do not feed the Coatis" sign, looking just likes it´s picture, nice ;-)

A Coatis cleaning up after lunch

A Tengo lizzard

The debate on the classification of wildlife species didn´t stop with the Coatis. The swimming pool at night attracts some huge insects and the animals that feed on them. I´m confident that all the swooping animals, several hundred of them, were Dusky Swifts whereas Shelley insisited they were bats. To prove how strongly she believed this, she ran screaming back to the hotel waving imaginary bats out of her hair, crazy girl ;-)

Highlights: The falls and not been eaten by any of the wildlife

Day 30 9th December 2006, Return to the Jungle - Buenos Aires to Iguassu

Having enough time in the city we jumped in our taxi for the airport, set with Insect repellent for our second visit to the Jungle. After asking for the J Newbury airport the taxi ground to a halt as apparently it was closed for repair, after a quick check the repairs had been completed and the airport was actually open, phew.

The flight to Iguassu took a couple of hours and we were greeted by the humid heat of the jungle, after a short but expensive taxi ride we arrived at one of the luxury hotels we are treating ourselves to every now and again, after roughing it for a while we were more than ready for a stay at a 5 star. The Sheraton is one of two hotels with a view of Iguassu falls, the other being in Brazil. The falls lie on the border between Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay.

The view from our room was stunning, the air filled with the sound of tropical birds with the thundering of the falls in the background.

The view from the room with the falls in the background

After spending the afternoon sunbathing and swimming at the pool we ventured onto one of the many trails around the falls and were lucky enough to see a pair of wild Toucans

Highlights: The magnifient falls and seeing Toucans in the wild

Day 29 8th December 2006, Poker, Steak and the City - Buenos Aires, Argentina

Being our last day in the city Shelley was determined to make sure that we had visited all of the 17 districts described in the guide book, needless to say a long day of walking through the city ensued. Taking refuge from the mid day sun to watch Casino Royale at the Cinema, never having played poker before I feel that from watching this film I should make a mean poker player and perhaps a career as a professional could be on the cards. After consolation with Shelley it would appear that we don´t have time to visit Vegas, oh well. I managed to have steak again for dinner

All the time at the gym is starting to pay off

Shelley next to one of the many sculptures in the city

Highlights: Steak again ;-)

Day 28 7th December 2006, The Argentine Economy - Buenos Aires, Argentina

Argentina from a tourist point of view is relatively good value for money with 5 Peso´s to the Pound. This is largely down to the recent economic troubles of the country, including the complete economic collapse in 2001. Since then the economy is almost back on its feet and the country is once again prospering. One of the knock on effects though is the large amount of counterfit money and "Old Pesos" doing the rounds.

This poses the tourist "us" a couple of problems, the first is that when withdrawing money from the bank it arrives in the form of 100 Pesos notes, great, however hardly anywhere in Buenos Aires wants to aaccept them for fear of forgery, the bank being helpful as they are wont break them down into smaller bills.

The second issue is the "Old Pesos" as I found out when a sneaky taxi driver swapped a 20 for an old 50, what a scoundrel. More amused at his audacity than anything else I let it go and started to work out my loss. 20 Pesos is about 4 Pounds, the old 50 Pesos has no value in Argentina but after a quick bit of ebay research you can sell the notes if they are in good condition for about 2 US$.

As we continued our exploration of the city the discontent of some citizens at the political situation past and present in Argentina was present. A large demonstration occupied the square outside the presidential palace, accompanied by riot police and water cannons at the ready. The amount of baracades scattered around the streets show this isn´t an isolated event. Not feeling ready to start a revolution we skirted round the edge and made our way to the La Boca district.

La Boca is famous for 2 things, La Boca Juniors football team, Maradonas old club and the brightly coloured artists houses.

Like London Buenos Aires is redeveloping its dockalnds, Puerto Madero. We swung by here for a spot of lunch and desert. After weeks of abstinence due to concerns over refrozen Ice Cream (Power cuts were frequent in Peru and Shelley put the fear of God into me with regard to eating Ice Cream that could have defrosted) we finally gave in eating about half a tub of the stuff. The selection of flavors proved a comical process, not being able to describe the flavors I would like from the vast quantity, I had to rely on memory from observing other customers orders and pick out the right silver vats.

The Authorities at a loss on how to control Maradona´s drunken drug fuelled lifestyle turned the fallen hero into paper mache

The day was finished off with a visit to a Tango show, so that´s everything on the to do in Buenos Aires pretty much completed.

Highlights: Fast and Furious Tango

Day 27 6th December 2006, Steak and the City - Buenos Aires, Argentina

After Lima, Buenos Aires certainly feels closer to home with a very European feel to the city, the level of English spoken is a lot less than in Peru. Could this be something to do with the past relations between Argentina and the UK?

A quick review recent history obviously brings up the Falklands conflict but going further back Britain tried to take the Spanish established colonies in Buenos Aires in 1806 and 1807, being repelled by local militia on both occasions. A few years later in 1810 the local citizens ousted the Spanish Viceroy and declared Independence. In 1838 -1840 and 1845-1848 the city survived naval blockades firstly by the French and then a joint Anglo-French attempt.

Surviving almost half a century of British and French invasions it was no surprise to find a watchtower in one of the cities squares, less surprisingly it is named The "Englishman Watchtower" In its shadow a large memorial to the Argentines who lost their lives during the Falklands / Malvinas conflict.

Walking through Buenos Aries we found and managed to cross the worlds largest street "Avenida 9 de Julio" Named after the official declaration of Independence on the 9th of July 1816. At 140 meters wide and with ten lanes, we needed several large beers after crossing it.

With all the new found political and historical knowledge I am acquiring on these travels, I should be unbeatable at Trivial Pursuit on our return. In my quest for a greater understanding of Argentina I had 4 key topics on my list

1. Evita
2. Tango
3. Steak
4. Football

After discovering that Evita (little Eva) was controversially a Nazi sympathiser, I lost interest and moved onto the other 3 items on the list. As we are going to a Tango show tomorrow Steak rose to the top of the agenda. Armed with my diagram off all the different beef cuts we headed off in search of a steak restaurant.

I plan to try out all of the different cuts before leaving Argentina

Highlights: Great Steak

Day 26 5th December 2006, Lima, Peru to Buenos Aires, Argentina 3,089km

The journey so far

My understanding of night flights is like this, you take off and dinner is quickly served before all the cabin lights are turned out and everyone including the stewards and stewardesses shut up. So either my understanding is way out or a flight a 3 hour flight at 1:25 am doesn´t fall into the category of a night flight.

This is how it works on a LAN Peru flight, take off, serve food an hour later and then about an hour before the flight lands turn out the cabin lights. Given I was fast asleep before the flight took off how do I know this? A very grumpy Shelley filled me in on all the details during our taxi ride to our hotel in Buenos Aires. One of the stewardesses took exception that I was asleep when "dinner" was served at 2:30am and made a persistent effort to wake me up.

Thanks to my previous job I am well trained in the art of filtering out the noise of annoying air stewards and stewardesses who in my opinion like the sound of their own voice way too much and I slept right through the flight.

Argentina is -3GMT vs -5GMT in Peru so we had a little jet lag but only one of us was feeling a little tired ;-) Checking into our hotel on the Ave de Mayo we were pleasantly greeted by almost a spitting image of Basil Fawlty, after a little exploring and finally getting the laundry done phew we sat back and enjoyed the sights and sounds of the city from our balcony.My first impression of Buenos Aires was that we had arrived in a smarter version of Paris, the buildings looking very French indeed but with the local residents dressed and groomed very smartly, needless to say I didn´t look like a local resident.

Highlights: Arriving in our second country Argentina.

Day 25 4th December 2006, The Peru Marathon - Peru

After all the excitement of the Inca trail a second day of relaxation was welcomed, deciding not even to get the laundry done until we arrive tomorrow in Buenos Aires (don´t worry I am only wearing everything twice before getting it washed, that´s inside twice and insideout twice).

If you remember my first blog entry from Peru, the Tour de Peru, well this afternoon the Peru Marathon swept pass us again everyone wearing yellow, very strange. As the national flag is red and white so I really cant work out this color scheme.

Being out of the city for so long we had forgotten how rough Lima actually was and our midnight taxi ride through the back streets of Lima was a quick reminder, checking in at the airport we were all set for our 1:25 am flight tomorrow to Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Highights: Having a lay in for once and a very easy day

Day 24 3rd December 2006, Dark glasses and greasy food - Lima

Rising very late from yesterdays drinking session, staying in Miraflores again we made our way slowly down to the restaurants at the coast, thanking myself for buying decent sun glasses. Over a club sandwich we said our goodbyes to the rest of the group, those who had made it out of bed. We spent the afternoon updating our blogs before having a very early night, proof enough that you do those ordinary days whilst travelling now and again.

Day 23 2nd December 2006 - Back to Lima - Puerto Maldonado to Lima

Heading downstream this time the canoe journey back only took an hour or so, but we were lucky enough to see five red macaws at one of the salt licks next to the river. Catching up with some sleep on the 3 hour flight back to Lima via Cusco on we were ready for some partying. To say we did some drinking would be an understatement, I have some nice new drinking games for when im back in the UK so watch out all

Kirsten - Start practicing buffalo for Oz http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buffalo_(drinking_game)

Day 22 1st December 2006 - Monkeys, Spiders and Spider Monkeys - Tambopota National Park

This certainly isn't a trip for those who enjoy a good lay in, up at 6am for a 12km trek to an ox bow lake was the order of the day. Being a little cooler at this time of the day some of the animals were out to play including spider monkeys, a tarantula which our guide managed to coax out of its burrow and a very strange but friendly little frog.

Friendly Frog

After lunch at 10am, quickly eaten before it could be carried off by the ants we ventured out into the oxbow lake in a wooden canoe, after of course our guide Hugo had emptied it of water to stop it from sinking.

It wasn't long before we saw two blue and yellow macaw´s keeping a watch full eye on us from their nest, made in the trunk of an old palm tree.

Jungle Jean

The oxbow lake is not just just home to some beautiful birds it also counts as its inhabitants piranhas and anacondas. So when Hugo asked who wanted to go for a swim there was a blank silence, "I can guarantee 100% that there are anacondas and can guarantee 99% that they wont attack you if you stay in the middle of the lake", so all we had to do was disregard the piranhas who kept themselves to themselves if they had been fed recently and we would be ok.

Needless to say everyone stayed dry, preferring to fish for piranhas form the river bank.

On the way back to the lodge we came across a fire ant tree, so called because its inhabited by fire ants who keep an area of about 1m clear around the tree to protect it from competing vines and other trees. A quick tap on the bark and out the troops come looking to bite something. In times gone by, being tied to a fire ant tree was used a punishment by the local tribes for women who strayed from the marital bed. The punishment for men committing the same offence, nothing they were apparently congratulated.

As night fell once more on the jungle we headed off up the river in search of Caymen which are small members of the alligator family and if I remember correctly taste like tough fish flavoured chicken. After seeing a few lurking in the reeds we switched the boat engine off and just drifted for a few minutes in the dark listening to the jungle chorus, very relaxing and inviting.

Highlights: Bugs, buglies and no snakes

Day 21 30th November 2006 - Flight to the Jungle - Cusco to Puerto Maldonado, Tambopata (Altitude 260m)

So far in Peru we have visited the cities, the coast, the desert, the mountains so to make sure we had covered every possible habitat known to man we headed off for a couple of days at the edge of the amazon basin. Not quite the amazon river which is further north, but according to our guide it looks exactly the same so that was good enough for me.

After a short flight from Cusco we travelled by road for about an hour and then by motorised canoe up the Tambopata river to our lodge, being almost back at sea level for the first time in over two weeks I was expecting to have the energy of an athlete with all those extra red blood cells, no such chance Zzzzzzzzzzz Zzzzzzzzzzzz every time I sat down for more than 10 minutes. Whilst on the canoe we caught our first glimpses of monkeys and macaws in the tree tops, luckily no snakes so far.

The journey up the Tambopata river

Arriving mid afternoon we had a little time to explore the jungle lodge and wonder what all the strange sounds were, with no electricity and oil lamps for light the remoteness of our location became apparent, so did the number of bugs we were sharing it with. During a short night walk we came across all of the creepy crawlies you see on TV, stick insects, huge crickets and a praying mantis cool.

Jungle Jean at the Jungle lodge

The humidity during the day was high and having to wear long trousers and shirts soon put my deodorant to the test, luckily at night it was beautifully cool and I even managed to convince Shelley that there was nothing in her bed and no bugs inside her mosquito net, this I can tell you took quite some time.

Highlights: Seeing some real life wild Macaw's

Day 20 29th November 2006 - White water rafting - Cusco

After exhausting ourselves on the Inca Trail it seemed only right to carry on and finsih ourselves off with some white water rafting. After donning my wetsuit, which after my recent rapid weight loss, fitted very well we headed off for some grade 3 rafting, freezing but great fun.

The rafting guys filmed the whole 2 hour event and then played it at 11pm in one of Cusco´s nightclubs, very strange.

Ok so this isn´t us but you get the idea

Highlights: Freezing cold water

Day 19 28th November 2006 - The Sprint to the Finish - Machu Picchu

Waking at 4am and out of our sleeping bags in a flash we were ready for action, wanting to be some of the first to see Machu Picchu we had to get away early, after a very quick breakfast we were almost set to go when another group rushed past us trying to get to the final checkpoint first. Not missing a trick Nacncy, backpack loaded sprinted after them quickly overtaking a rather put out English guy, " tough" was Nacncy´s reply to his claims of unsportsman like conduct.

The rest of us managed to catch up a few minutes later and take up pole position at the enterance to the last 6km, 3km from the Sun gate. 4:30AM with an hour until the checkpoint opened, the path behind us soon filled with other hikers, right on queue the checkpoint opened, I did contemplate bribing the official to close the gate again to give us a head start, this would have been a better idea than the 4km early morning run round a slippery forest path with 200 people baring down on you.

From left to right, Christina, Siobhan, Bridge and Shelley ahead of the 200 other people trying to get to Machu Picchu first

Adding to the excitement was Frank constantly updating us on the progress of the other groups behind us, being fit as we were only a couple of trained Athletes managed to get past us, only just though with Shelley making an innocent attempt to trip them up with her walking stick.

After a final almost vertical scramble we reached the Sun Gate, the view was one that I shall probably never forget.

The group at the Sun Gate with Machu Picchu in the background

Machu Picchu

Living up to expectations Machu Picchu truly is a magical place, after touring the ruins with our guide, personally not really taking much in apart from the views we headed off to climb Wayna Picchu for the alternative view of the site. The peak being exactly the same height as the Sun gate.

Myself and Shelley at the top of Wayna Picchu with Machu Picchu in the background

Unable to really do the story of Machu Picchu any justice at all here, the wikipedia entry has a great overview http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machu_picchu In Quechua, the language of the Inca´s Machu Picchu means Old Mountain.

Of course there had to be a llama

Still a little overwhelmed by the experience we headed down to the nearby town for a soak in yet more hot thermal baths, before a sleepy train ride back to Cusco

Highlights: Machu Picchu of course ;-)