Day 257 July 23rd 2007, Taking it easy - Langkawi

After all the champagne and chocolate cake last night we were off to a slow start today, there is plenty to do on Langkawi but we opted to just lounge around the pool and beach. Above: the view from the apartment over the lake (pond) Below: one of the views from the resort to the beach.

Much of the discussion now in on the wedding, I put forward my best and creative suggestions all of which were dismissed instantly. I had what I thought were good ideas for the seating plan, such as having a table for all the people called Mike and putting all the people with beards together ;-)

Highlights: Relaxing by the sea

Day 256 July 22nd 2007, Happy Birthday Will You Marry Me? - Langkawi


I think that as Shelley brought me a bookmark for my last Birthday she was pretty happy with the chocolates I brought her from the airport last night. But given that for the last week I wouldn't let her look in my rucksack she was convinced I had another Birthday present in there.


After waiting all day we took some Birthday Champagne down to the beach as the sunset. As we were both sitting on the beach I had to ask Shelley to stand up so I could get down on one knee and ask her to Marry me.


As you can see from the photo the answer was YES. I had been thinking about the proposal so much I didn't think to book anywhere nice for dinner, oops. So we ended up in the hotel bar, Shelley scaring the barman with an emotion outburst of tears of joy, the poor guy didn't know where to look but quickly got us another bottle of champagne.


After much champagne we headed back to our chalet by the beach, the resort is quite large and the staff use golf buggies to get around. Full of champagne confidence Shelley decided to flag one down (think hold up), with only one seat spare Shelley declared that as her Fiance I should run behind. All I heard as Shelley whizzed of down the track was "do you know I'm engaged?" "look at my beautiful ring" Despite what Shelley may tell you the driver didn't keep slowing down so I could keep up.

Highlights: Having a Wonderful Fiance

Day 255 July 21st 2007, From the city to the Beach - Kuala Lumpur to Langkawi


You can't come to Kuala Lumpur without visiting the Petronas towers. If you don't like queues I think you can. We had to queue up for over 2 hours to get one of the free tickets they give out each day to visit the skybridge between the two towers on the 41st floor. Go to the KL Tower you get a much better view with no queues and its higher than the skybridge.


Eventually getting a ticket we were allocated a time of 2:30PM giving us plenty of time to continue our walking tour of the city. Today taking in the Chinese district, this included the market above which smelt worse than it looked. In one of the Taoist temples we found this rather striking dragon.


When we got our turn to visit the skybridge is was quite impressive, you get the place pretty much to yourself, only a few visitors go up at a time and being the weekend the offices were empty.


Some facts about the towers:

At 452m the towers were the tallest building in the world between 1998 and 2004

The tower has 88 stories and 76 lifts

Today in fact the Burj Dubai became the tallest building in the World. At over 800m it dwarf es the Petronas towers, relegating it to 4th place.

There is a council which is responsible for the tallest building rankings

A tall building can be ranked in one of 4 categories (Pinnacle Height/Spire height, Highest occupied floor, Roof Height, Pinnacle Height)

It all sounds a bit like the largest Buddha story.


After about a week of exploring 2 of Asia's busiest city's we set of for the beach. Langkawi is an archipelago of 99 islands, located off the West coast of the peninsular, we were staying on the largest of the islands Pulau Langkawi. After a short flight we arrived in time for the sunset.


Highlights: Arriving at the beautiful beach resort in Langkawi

Day 254 July 20th 2007, British, Indian, Chinese and of Course Malaysian - Kuala Lumpur


The jet lag is now getting beyond a joke, however a solution to break the cycle is at hand. To visit the Petronas Towers you have to arrive early in the morning to get a ticket. However as we found out 9AM wasn't quite early enough. So after a quick stop at Starbucks , located in a designer mall below the towers (we could have still been in Hong Kong) As I have given up caffeine I was on the orange juice. After reading an article in a magazine, prompted by my old boss who has also given up caffeine, I decided I was addicted to the stuff and have given it up. Probably just as well as I have enough trouble getting to sleep before 5AM at the moment as it is.


Guide book in hand we set off on a tour of the city and its many districts. These include the Colonial, the Indian and the Chinese districts not to forget of course the Malay areas. First stop was the Colonial area, 2007 is the 50th anniversary of when Britain handed back control of Malaysia to Malaysia. In the top photo is where the handover took place, an old cricket green complete with elitist drinking establishment in the form of a mock Tudor building.

It is probably worth listing a brief summary of how Malaysia as it is today came about.

1400s - Founding of Malacca by Parameswara.
1409 - Chinese Admiral Cheng Ho arrives in Malacca.
1511 - Malacca falls to the Portuguese.
1641 - The Dutch take Malacca from the Portuguese
1786 - The British occupy Penang.
1819 - British occupy Singapore.
1824 - Anglo-Dutch Treaty carves up Malay world into colonial spheres: Dutch cede Malacca to British and keeps Riau.
1826 - Singapore, Malacca Penang and Province Wellesley become Straits Settlements under British control.
1840s - The importance of tin increases, bringing an influx of Chinese tin miners to the western coast.
1841 - James Brooke established as Rajah of Sarawak.
1914-18 - World War I.
1941-45 - Japanese conquest and occupation.
1945 - British reoccupy Malaya.
1946 -Malayan Union scheme introduced but is opposed, formation of United Malay National Organisation (Umno); Sarawak and British North Borneo become Crown colonies.
1948 - Malayan Union scheme abandoned; Federation of Malaya inaugurated.
1948-60 -Communist uprising - The Emergency.
1952 - Municipal elections in Kuala Lumpur; Umno and Malayan Chinese Association (MCA) parties cooperate.
1953 - Alliance coalition comprising Umno, MCA and Malayan Indian Congress (MIC) formed.
1955 - First general elections in the peninsula; landslide win for the Alliance.
1956 - Tunku Abdul Rahman leads Merdeka Mission to London to negotiate for independence.
1957 -Malaya becomes independent, and the Union Jack is lowered for the last time

As a result of its history Malaysia is a complete mix of cultures but is a Muslim country, across from the cricket ground a better example of architecture to reflect this can be seen. The city as a whole isn't as modern as the Petronas towers would have you think.


On the outskirts of town in some of the Malay districts you can still find wooden stilted houses. Amongst the houses we found an awakening night market, including one stall selling Siamese fighting fish. Apparently its a popular sport here.

Highlights: Exploring Britain's colonial history

Day 253 July 19th 2007, A Country of 2 Halves - Hong Kong to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia


We hadn't originally planned to visit Malaysia, but feeling as though we hadn't seen as much wildlife as we would have liked on this trip we decided to visit Borneo. Malaysia is split between the peninsular and the Island of Borneo. The capital Kuala Lumpur, our first stop is on the peninsular.

Highlights: Malaysian food

Day 252 July 18th 2007, The World's Largest - Hong Kong

When we were in the UK for 2 weeks the new £20 took me by surprise, nothing though compared to the variety of notes in Hong Kong. In all 3 banks issue currency, HSBC, Standard Charter and the Bank of China. Same value and denominations but different notes.

We caught the ferry today across to Lantau Island, where you can see the largest Buddha in the world. Thinking I've heard that before, the footnote reads "largest outdoor Buddha in the world" One other thing work pointing out about Hong Kong is where ever you go you always end up in a designer shopping mall, they are everywhere.

Highlights - Seeing another of the Worlds Largest Buddhas

Day 251 July 17th 2007, Lights, Action, More Lights - Hong Kong


One of the nice things about Hong Kong is that they use 3 pin UK power sockets here, a sign of the territories colonial past. Today the flag of China flys center stage with the HK SAR flag slightly lower to the left. When Hong Kong was handed back to China 10 years ago, the "One country, two systems" policy was put in place. This legislation will last for another 40 years, so until 2047 Hong Kong has its own capitalist economy and political system, while the rest of China is governed under a socialist system. Hong Kong is basically responsible for its own affairs, whilst China is responsible for all diplomatic and military matters.


Flying West to East is always usually causes quite some jet lag. and after finally getting to sleep at 5AM, we managed to crawl out of bed just before lunch. Should have got up at 8AM so now expecting another day of lag. Not deterred by our late start we still managed to get a visit Victoria Peak for a view of the city, from here you get a great view of both the Island's and Kowloon's skyline. After visiting the place where the handover to China took place (top photo) we took in the fish and flower markets. (Above)


The Hong Kong skyline is pretty impressive during the day but at 8PM everyday, the building form one of the worlds largest light shows. This very impressive show lasts about 15 minutes, co ordinated with classical music that plays out from speakers along the waterfront.


On Kowloon you can find the Hong Kong "Hollywood style" walk of stars. Pretty much the only name we recognised was Bruce Lee (Above)

Highlights: Impressive skyline

Day 249 July 15th 2007 - Day 250 July 16th 2007, Stay at the YMCA - UK to Hong Kong


After some last minute shopping on the 15th we caught a night flight back to Hong Kong (Yes I know its the same map from 2 weeks ago, just imagine some arrows pointing West to East). The flight is just over 11 hours, with Hong Kong +7 GMT we arrived early evening, almost time to go to bed again. After sleeping for most of the flight this was going to be interesting.


We checked into the YMCA, right on the Kowloon waterfront, our room had a great view of Hong Kong Islands skyline. You'll be pleased to know I have finally got my bearings in Hong Kong. I was amazed at the YMCA, I thought I was going to be staying in some sort of hostel, sharing a room with constructions workers, guys with moustaches and policemen. Instead we found ourselves in a business style hotel.


So after getting myself clean we headed out for a good meal, deciding not to hang out with all the boys. In an attempt to ward off the jet lag we took a trip to the cinema. It didn't work, fell asleep at 10PM and was awake at 1AM.

Highlights: Not the Jet Lag

Day 235 July 2nd 2007 - Day 248 July 14th 2007, A Holiday Back Home - UK


The reason for our 2 week trip back to the UK was to see the latest edition to the Family, Shelley's niece Sophie who is just a couple of weeks old. On arriving at Heathrow Shelley's parents Allen and Wendy provided a surprise welcoming party. After a quick hello from me I left Shelley to coo over Sophie and headed off to my parents in Norfolk. Not before Allen managed to offload a can of oil to me from my old car (Allen sold it for me whilst we were away)

All good until I realised that I would be dropping my hire car at Norwich Airport, the Hertz desk at which is inside the airport. I was pretty sure that with my backpack on and can of oil in tow I wouldn't get within 50m. I came up with a solution to advert a stay in jail and exchanged luggage with my Dad before returning the car.

After 3 days of stocking up on R&R at the parents, not too mention good old home cooked food, I ventured down to Cambridge to visit Paul, my Brother. Food, Beers and a half decent film and I was on the road again, this time to Chelthnam.


Meeting up with old University Friends Andy and Adrian, we found the energy for a bit of a walk around the Breckon Beacons. Curry, Beer, Pizza and I was on my way again to catch up with Shelley, who was at Karen's in Selsby. Fish n Chips, G&T's and we were on our way the next day to catch up with both sets of Parents in Barton on Sea.

Just down the road is Portsmouth and the Victory which I haven't visited since I was a kid. Great to see some of the old Naval power that used to rule the seas.


We couldn't resist getting the parents to put on a fashion show with the gowns and hats we had picked up for them in Japan and Vietnam. All they needed was a Paddy Field, with the current UK weather that might be easy to arrange.

Highlights: Catching up with Family and Friends

Day 234 July 1st 2007, Shopping and Celebrations - Hong Kong to UK



Going back to the UK for a couple of weeks had given me the opportunity to line up a couple of job interviews, only problem is that my wardrobe consists solely of sweat encrusted shorts and t shirts. Not quite the outfit for a tech sales guy. Where better to be than Hong Kong to buy a suit.

Right I need socks, shoes, belt, suit, shirt and a tie and I need it now, apparently tailoring takes a couple of days but Shelley, a bit more with it than me today, got the deal closed and the suit ready by 7PM. Just in time to watch the 10th Anniversary of UK handover to China fireworks. Quite spectacular, during the day the main street in Hong Kong was filled with protesters against Chinese rule, this however didn't seem to affect the number of locals watching the fireworks.

Dashing back to the airport, I still haven't got my bearings, we boarded our night flight back to the UK

Highlights: Efficient shopping and Chinese Fireworks

Day 233 June 30th 2007, Where am I ? - Siam Reap to Hong Kong via Bangkok


Today was spent mostly travelling, with 2 flights to get us to Hong Kong before our flight back to the UK tomorrow. Arriving in Hong Kong early evening we made a mad dash across town to meet up with one of Shelley's friends and colleagues who lives over here. The holes in my geography knowledge were shown up once again, I knew that Hong Kong was an island but didn't realise there were several other islands and part of the Chinese mainland, that were once under British control, now part of whats know as the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region or HK SAR.

After catching cabs all over the place between the islands and mainland I have to admit that I'm totally disoriented, the beers over dinner didn't really help to focus my sense of direction on the return trip to our hotel on the mainland.

Highlights: It was great to catch up with Michelle and learn about life in HK

Day 232 June 29th 2007, A Cock & Bull Story - Siam Reap

Eastern Angkor was the last stop on our tour, this gave us the opportunity to visit an orphanage that our guide Tek supports. Instead of giving money, they asked instead if we could bring them some new tooth brushes and toothpaste, the orphanage is home to about 30 children, providing support for another 30 from single parent families. I think I have said before that in Cambodia 50% of the population is under 25 as a result of the civil war, there are some 60,000 to 200,000 orphans.



The children at the orphanage all attend school in the morning and when we arrived many were busy preparing lunch, this included the task of shaving a pigs head before cooking it. The children not involved in the cooking were making pictures from leather. I brought one of an elephant, the child who made it, in this case Chan, gets 10% commission, the rest going to the orphanage.


To say thank you for the tooth brushes the children put on a shadow puppet show, extremely funny even though we couldn't really understand what was happening. It was a story about 2 farmers arranging a fight between a chicken and a bull, needless to say who won. It was nice to spend time with the children, very humbling to see their happiness even though they have so little. In the photo below are all the children at the orphanage, the hands together is a sign to say thank you.


The roads around Eastern Angkor were pretty muddy to say the least, we would have been better with the ox below. We had to abandon our jeep while our driver stopped it sliding into a paddy field.


Highlights: Visiting the orphanage

Day 231 June 28th 2007, Wat ? - Siam Reap


It seems that the best time to view any significant natural or man made wonder is at sunset or sunrise. I'm not really sunrise compatible but today it was worth getting up extra early, 4AM I think to be some of the first at the main temple of Angor Vat The temple is the main attraction for tourists and is even featured on the national flag. We entered the temple from the East gate, only accessible by small transport or foot. In the photo below this is on the right hand side.



Shelley takes in the view over the jungle as the sun slowly rises (above) The temple is full of reliefs (large wall sized carvings) depicting scenes from Hindu beliefs, our guide Tek an excellent story teller talked us through many of them whilst we walked with the huge temple walls.


Above, the Western gate and below some classic views of the temple. Our guide Tek was from a local village and remembers that even in the 1990's the temple had mounted machine guns to protect it from the Khmer Rouge who were still fighting a guerrilla war in the North of Cambodia. He told us that his farther was part of a village patrol against the KR, he remembers the AK-47 kept in the house, which when his farther was out he used to play with.




Again after a few hours of relaxation at the hotel we ventured out again, this time to visit the temple best know by Hollywood. The Tomb Raider films, starring Angelina Joline were filmed here. The temple of Ta Phrohm has left been left to nature and the roots of the sponge tress are slowly pushing the temple apart as you can see in the photos below. Many parts of the temple are unstable, if this was anywhere else in the World you probably wouldn't be allowed in. Next to the temple was this straw house, a reminder that 80% of Cambodians are farmers.






As we were finishing our tour the wind picked up, the rain started and the temple certainly looked as though it was going to fall down around us. With 200m back to the road we were going to get a shower. We were saved though by our tuk tuk driver who at the sign of rain had run from the road with some very fancy parasoles. As you can see from the photos below, when it rains here it really rains. The bottom photo is the road outside our hotel.






Highlights: Angkor Wat at sunrise and the film set feel of Ta Phromh