Day 210 June 7th 2007, Another Epic Journey - Cat Ba (Halong Bay) to Sapa via Hanoi

Before we set off on another epic journey we managed to catch some last minute Sun, the beach almost deserted. Below: Shelley takes a stroll along the beach and the view of our hotel from the beach.



Our next stop was the mountain town of Sapa, to get here you have to catch an overnight train from Hanoi. So here goes - car - bus - boat - bus - another bus - taxi - a few hours in cafe waiting for night train - night train and then a bus ride from Lao Cai to Sapa when we get off the train. I haven't yet mastered the art of hanging out in Cafes. In the 3 hours we were waiting I ploughed my way through most of the menu, whilst a girl at a nearby table made a coke last the duration.

I kid you not the above is a photo with an accurate reflection of the lighting at the train station. Talk about dodgy. The train itself though (or our carriage) was pretty nice. Luckily no weirdos in our room just two girls travelling from Singapore. One last annoyance before we set off for the mountains, little old women banging beer cans against the train windows - No I don't want a beer have you seen the toilets on this thing.

Highlights: Deserted beach

Day 209 June 6th 2007, Floating Houses - Cat Ba (Halong Bay)

The many islands of Halong Bay are best viewed by a traditional junk boat. We hired our own little craft with its crew of three, two of which were asleep for most of the day. Although Cat Ba is the only inhabited Island, the waterways are filled with fishing boats and floating fishing villages.

Fisherman range from a guy with a bamboo stick and line to a full on fishing boat. As you can just about see to the right of the floating house above, each has one or two guard dogs.


Below: Some of the limestone formations typical of the Bay.


Below: Some very patriotic fishing houses displaying the Vietnamese flag.


During the day we stopped off at various islands, managed to get in a bit of snorkeling. Not quite the barrier reef but some nice corals. Not too many fish as sustainable fishing hasn't caught on yet.

Above is our trusty ship, junk boat being the optimum word. The fresh sea food cooked up by the crew fort lunch was fantastic. Other forms of transport could be found including some sort of U Boat below.

The final stop of the day was Monkey Island, so called because of the monkeys that inhabit the Island. Either they were all asleep or they have been eaten by the locals.

Highlights: Cruising around the Bay

Day 208 June 5th 2007, Blisters - Cat Ba (Halong Bay)

I managed to nothing today but blister the soles of my feet. After lounging by the pool and beach for most of the day, I decided to take a short walk along the coastal path. The ground a little hot but given that I am a fast walker no need for shoes.

That is until you come across a green viper (later confirmed to by highly dangerous, then downgraded after further discussion to slightly dangerous) and have to stand still while it crosses the path in front of you. Giving the thing a while to disappear I then hopped back to the pool oh ah oh ah all the way

Highlights: Sun, Sea and Sand

Day 207 June 4th 2007, Bay of Descending Dragons - Hanoi to Cat Ba (Halong Bay)


After almost a week in Vietnam's largest city's I was done, get me outta here. Where better than the Island of Cat Ba in Halong Bay to chill out for a few days. With over 3,000 Islands in the bay (more like rock formations) Cat Ba is the only inhabited one.

Only little challenge was getting there, arrangement was easy but the journey itself was a little drawn out. In summary - Back of a scooter - bus - another bus (including sleeper bus for 2o mins above) - boat - bus and then a short car ride to the hotel. On arrival we checked in the beautiful sun rise resort. I am going nowhere now for 3 days. Below is the view from our room.


Local legend says that long ago when the Vietnamese were fighting Chinese invaders, the gods sent a family of dragons to help defend the land. This family of dragons descended upon what is now Ha Long Bay (hence the name "Bay of Descending Dragons") and began spitting out jewels and jade. These jewels turned into the islands and islets dotting the bay, linking together to form barriers against the invaders. The people kept their land safe and formed what later became the country of Vietnam.

A modern legend claims that a creature named the tarasque still lives in the bay. With the head of a Lion, six bear like legs, an ox like body covered with a turtle shell and a scaly tale that ends with a scorpions sting. I for one will be giving it a wide berth.

Highlights: Ahhh air conditioned room, mini bar, pool

Day 206 June 3rd 2007, Confucius he say - Hanoi

From my point of view Hanoi isn't much to look at, a few old French buildings, each covered in a layer of dirt. The guide book describes Hanoi as "sophisticated, modern and yet coolly romantic" compared to where I ask?

So it would be typical that the first time I leave the camera at the hotel we find some beautiful 11th century architecture at the Temple of Literature. All pictures are from Wikipedia. The front gate is inscribed with a request that visitors dismount from their horses, luckily Hanoi's current population have adopted this to apply to mopeds and scooters. I haven't seen a single horse since we've been here, come to think of it there aren't any stray dogs either.


The temple was built in 1070 and dedicated to Confucius A few years later a university was built within the temple grounds. Over the following 700 years over 2000 doctors graduated. Their names and achievements recorded 116 stone plaques, placed on stone turtles, today 82 remain like the one below.


When I graduated from Uni all I got was my name on a printed list in one of the corridors, not quite the same.

Highlights: Ancient University

Day 205 June 2nd 2007, Ho Chi Minh in Hanoi ,Hanoi


Traffic in Hanoi, Vietnam's capital was on a par with Ho Chi Minh City's. Above is thew view from our taxi on route to visit Ho Chi Minh himself, Vietnam's war time leader. After his death in 1969 instead of being cremated as per his wishes, he was preserved for all eternity just like Lenin in Russia. His current state hasn't stopped him from travelling and every year he is flown to Moscow to undergo 3 months of maintenance. His mausoleum is pictured below, but for some reason perhaps his annual trip to Russia it was closed to the public.




We have seen some interesting things on scooters here, on a visit to the Museum of Ethnology the origins of this transportation trend were revealed. Interesting to note that the bike in the photo had a flat tyre. After a tour of the Museum we sweated out a walk in the sweltering humidity round Hoan Kiem Lake, in the center of Hanoi's old town.



Highlights: Getting hot and sweaty in Hanoi

Day 204 June 1st 2007, Going Underground - Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi


Reading about the tunnels used by the Viet Cong is one thing, actually seeing them is quite another. A network that stretched over 200km from Saigon to the border of Cambodia, in places consisting of up to 3 levels, really illustrated the determination of the Viet Cong to fight a patient guerrilla war against the US.

One of Vietnam's regular soldiers manged to squeeze into the tunnel entrance above, we didn't even know it was there until he dusted off the leaves. I manged to almost get in but for fear of getting my arms stuck left them above ground. As we walked above the tunnel complex at Cu Chi, the sound of gun fire from the nearby range echoing through the jungle, we had no idea of the location of the tunnels or their entrances. Add dense forest, some rainfall and you can see why the use of tunnels by the Viet Cong proved such an issue for the Americans.


The tunnels were designed to withstand grenade and gas attack and flooding would have little affect, the water would simply drain away. To stop American GI's from infiltrating the tunnel complex, intricate and lethal traps were laid. Everything from trip wire mines to poisonous snakes. Lucky in the tunnel we crawled through (above) it was just the humidity we had to deal with. Anyone interested in a great set of both Vietnamese and American accounts from the tunnels should have a look at The Tunnels of Cu Chi.


Above is one of the fully automatic rifles at the range, all you had to do was purchase the bullets from the gift shop. Their were prizes for accuracy but when I had a go with an AK-47 I was at least 10m from the target. Shelley refused to go anywhere need the range so no photos of me wit the the communist weapon of choice.


If Viet Cong popping up from tunnels, sometimes within an American base, wasn't bad enough the jungle was full of traps such as the one above. Visiting the tunnels at Cu Chi, just North of Ho Chi Minh City was a real eye opener. From what I've seen I certainly would not have relished the thought of being sent to Vietnam to fight. After returning to Ho Chi Minh City we caught a flight North to Hanoi.

Highlights: Crawling round the Cu Chi Tunnels

Day 203 May 31st 2007, Fly Free Little Birds - Ho Chi Minh City

With not a traffic light in sight there is only one way to cross the street here, walk slowly straight out in front of the millions of scooters, maintain eye contact with the drivers and they weave their way past you, whilst observing the rule of why slow down, when you can use your horn.


Given the chaos on the roads and the constant harassment we decided to take an organised tour of the city. A more accurate description is a mini bus ride to a number of sites, where your on your own. The tour companies go out of their way to ensure you get your $4 worth and in one day we managed to visit about 7 sites and stop for lunch.


First up was the Giac Lac Pagoda and Thin Hou Temple, being Buddhas Birthday it was pretty busy. After visiting Japan we have seen many a Buddhist temple, but this would have to be the only one where the Buddha has a neon halo. Outside the temple old women with cages full of sparrows. You can buy the freedom of 4 of the little chaps for a $1, so of course I had to let some go. The gesture is supposed to bring you good luck.


Bung Tay market was up next, seen one and you have seen them all. I don't know many tours where you get to visit the General Post Office but that was next on the tour followed by a Catholic Cathedral, their architecture quite different from the rest of Ho Chi Minh City which needs a good coat of gloss paint.



Perhaps two of the most interesting sites on the tour were the War Museum and the Reunification Palace. The museum had a selection of old American Hardware and told the story of the war through the work journalists and photographer at the time. One stark image was a book seller working in the grounds of the museum. At the age of 8 he lost one of his legs and both his fore arms to a land mine. After hearing his story I couldn't really not buy a book from him.



The final stop was the Reunification Palace, used by President Diem during the war. Its called the Reunification Palace as after the fall of Saigon it was here power was transferred to the North and the country reunited under a single government. Complete with 60's decor and the old war rooms below the palace. Even the hot line to Washington has been preserved. Below: One of the many American helicopters supplied to the South Vietnamese, infront the marker where a B-52 bomb landed. Also the Presidents desk and 1960s phones, I have no idea what the pink one was for.



Highlights: A much greater understanding of the Vietnam war

Day 202 May 30th 2007, Raining Cats and Dogs - Ho Chi Minh City


On leaving Japan we went on a panic shopping spree for English books, in fear that we wouldn't be able to get anything to read for the next month. We needn't have worried. Every best seller is for sale by street vendors here, all photocopies of course. Our hotel at $20 a night is quite nice, clean with air conditioning and has a receptionist that can book anything in seconds. Before long our flight to Hanoi was booked and our laundry done.

The view from our room (Above) isn't the most scenic. The view also revels where much of the food in the nicely fronted restaurants is cooked. Our most used phrase is now "No Thank You" It gets to the point of ridiculous pretty easily, why do I need a moped when I'm walking into a restaurant.


Imagine Alton Towers built 20 years ago and since then not a penny spent on maintenance. Thats the Dam Sen Park, Ho Chi Minh Citys amusement park. The gardens with their dragons are quite nice, watch out of the very large rats which aren't made of leaves.


As the humidity rose into the evening, the clouds grew darker and before long the sky opened. The streets and some of the locals got a much needed wash, while the humidity dropped a little. Whilst on the topic if raining cats and dogs, its worth mentioning that there are over 1km of restaurants serving dog. By this I assume the dogs aren't the customers.

Highlights: The rain

Day 201 May 29th 2007, Good Evening Vietnam - Tokyo to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam


Last nights Sake was still making itself felt as carrying our backpacks we traversed the Tokyo subway system to the airport. Our flight to Vietnam took us via Hong Kong and then onto Ho Chi Minh city (Saigon) With some time to reflect on our month in Japan and recover from the Sake here is the Adam Filby Top 10 of Japan.

1. Tokyo - Huge and diverse with a surprise round every corner. Everything from temples to skyscrapers just a subway ride away.

2. Japanese food - Each city or region has its own speciality. From the Sushi in Tokyo, Octopus balls in Osaka to Noodle pancakes in Hiroshima. On the list of strange foods I can now add Stingray, Jellyfish and Grasshopper.

3. Kyoto - The city of temples and shrines, some of the most amazing we saw in Japan, we only managed to see a fraction of them in the 3 days we were in town.

4. Hiking - Spectacular mountain views near Fuji-San and everything Monkeys and ladders in Takayama.

5. Tuswano - Amongst the hustle and bustle of Japan this small town offers peace and relaxation. Not to mention the 1,000s of Koi

6. Hiroshima - A visit here should be on every visitor to Japans itinerary.

7. Koyasan - Its not everyday you get to stay with Buddhist Monks, although the Tofu for breakfast leaves a little to be desired.

8. Yudanaka - Up close with the Snow Monkeys and Grasshoppers for dinner.

9. Shinkansens - Japans incredible super fast train system.

10. Onsens - I have never been so clean and the hot water works wonders for those aching legs.

If Japan is one of the cleanest and most orderly countries in the World, Vietnam is its opposite. That's if Ho Chi Minh city is anything to go by. As we travelled by taxi to what the locals call "Foreign Land" I was amazed at the thousands of scooters weaving their way in and out of the cars. I couldn't tell you which side of the road they drive on in Vietnam.

Highlights: Arriving in Vietnam

Day 200 May 28th 2007, Sumo & Sake - Tokyo


Finding the Vietnamese embassy in Tokyo is quite a challenge, especially when the street its on isn't on any other map other then the one at the train station. Solution get Shelley to point to embassy on map and photograph, then navigate by digital camera.


Visas for our trip to Vietnam tomorrow in hand we took a stroll through Shibuya again, this time round living up to its busy reputation. One of the highlights in Japan certainly has to be the food, both the diversity and the quality. Luckily for our last night in Tokyo we met up again with Koichi and his wife Junko. We couldn't have asked for better hosts. Junko did a fantastic job with the cooking, whilst Koichi excelled in ensuring that my glass was always full of Sake.


An array of dishing soon arrived including the two below. Any guesses? The meat on the leaf is Stingray and in the small bowl behind it Jelleyfish. Both were very tasty although the stingray a little chewy.


On our first night in Tokyo with Koichi and Junko we were ambushed by Namahage. This time in a Sumo Wrestling restaurant I didn't know what to expect. At any moment I though a wrestler would jump out and throw me into the ring. Luckily my only opponent for the evening was Koichi ;-)


Highlights: Another great night out with Koichi and Junko

Day 199 May 27th 2007, The Electric City - Tokyo


Tokyo was in full swing today, as unlike our first visit almost a month ago, it wasn't a public holiday today. As we travelled across Tokyo to visit whats know as Electric City, Tokyo lived up to its stereotype of being a bustling metropolis. It appears though that on Sundays many of the main shopping streets are closed to cars which makes browsing the shops a real pleasure.

In Electric City you can pick up anything from a light bulb to a laptop, I was on my best behaviour and common sense prevailed. It would not be a good idea to lug a bag full of new gadgets round Vietnam and Cambodia during the wet season, over the next month.

I have to admit though that I didn't see anything in the shops that I haven't also seen in Europe or the US, so no new ground breaking technology to report.

Highlights: Streets and streets of gadgets

Day 198 May 26th 2007, Planet of the Apes - Yudanaka to Tokyo



What no Monkeys? On arriving at Monkey World we were told to wait at the ticket office by a worried looking park warden as there were no Monkeys. A few minutes later another warden appeared whistling loudly. After throwing handfuls of soya beans onto the path in front of him a scene not out of place in a Planet of the Apes film unfolded before us. Monkeys descended down the hills from every direction towards the warden, jumping and running past us as they went. (Photos Above: Our accommodation as seen from Monkey World. Below: Shelley on right and one of the Monkeys)


It was quite remarkable to watch them so closely, in true monkey style they were running, swinging and jumping from anything in site. The boss surprisingly appeared to be one of the smaller monkeys, either that or he was just the loudest. Spending a couple of hours in the park you could start to see each of their little personalities and place within this community of about 200 monkeys.


Above: Two of the Monkeys in their private Onsen (natural hot spring) Below: Drying out in the Sun afterwards. Bottom: A mother and baby Monkey.



Although not a completely natural environment the Monkeys were free to come and go as they pleased and the Wardens only seemed to be feeding them soya beans and some fruit, as a tourist you weren't allowed to touch or feed the Monkeys. As its Japan there had to be an element of technology at Monkey World, the Monkey Cam.

After our Wildlife experience it was time to get back to Tokyo where our trip here began almost a month ago.

Highlights: Ooohh ooohh aaah aaah