Day 191 May 19th 2007, Mud Baths - Aso to Beppu

Yesterdays steep ascent and decent of Aso-San certainly gave our legs something to think about. Still wearing my hiking boots I set off from the UK with 7 months ago (they were well used then) my feet could also do with some TLC. What better a place to visit then than Beppu, renown for his hot springs. So much so that the numerous steam vents covering the city make it look like a polluted industrial town, it is only steam though.


When hot springs are mentioned are always assume to find them in a little village tucked away in the mountains. Beppu is a sprawling town but nicely set between the mountains and the sea. The towns hot springs pump out more than 100 million litres of hot water a day, you would expect then to find your hotel shower hot, not the case.


There are two types of hot spring Jigoku (hells) and Onsen which are for bathing in. The hells so named because of the heaat have been transformed into mini theme parks, very tacky but if you haven't seem bubbling mud before worth a look.

After checking out a couple of the themed Jigoku we headed off to one of Beppus larger Onsens, Holyland. The guide book advises you to read carefully the English instructions here, none left said the lady at reception. Having made many a mistake at our earlier Onsens visits, this one should be a breeze apart from the mixed bathing. I would like to point out at this point that it was Shelley's idea to come here.

Working my way through the men only baths, I made my way to the mixed sulphur baths where I had arranged to rendezvous with Shelley. The flannel you are supposed to use to cover yourself whilst walking about only went half way round my waist. I managed to make it to the safety of the mud and then watched Shelley emerge from the ladies baths only to walk straight into the men only section. Think of a scene from a carry on film set in Japan and you have the picture.

Warm through and through we headed back to our hotel which was infested with cockroaches. The downside to all this natural water is that our hotel seemed to use it for everything including the laundry. Fairy didn't have a "fresh smell of sulphur" conditioner last time I looked, if you fancy it though one wash in Beppu will have the same effect.

Highlights: Hot water except in the shower??